30 September 2014

New Favorite Dress Pattern + Pattern Review: Burda 7178

I needed a dress for a special service at church and I really wasn't feeling like a whole lot of pomp and circumstance. I had pinned this look a while ago and decided to use this as my inspiration. Simple. Classic.


I decided not to wear a hat. I'm really not a hat person and all the hats I saw that I really liked were over $200 and that's just ridiculous for something that will only be worn once. (I promise it would only be worn once).

I wanted something with a high neckline. So I flipped through my pattern collection and Burda 7178 just seemed perfect. For my muslin, according to the finished pattern measurements, I cut a 12 for the bodice and graded out to 14 at the waist and 16 at the hips. Now I've NEVER cut a size 16 even at my heaviest but ehhh this is why we make muslins.

As you can see, it was too big in the bottom. And there is this pooling of fabric underneath the bust.

I REALLY should have done a slight FBA but I'm not being completely honest with myself about my body LOL. Plus I was being lazy. I've read that Burda is drafted for C cup so I thought that I could skate by. And it really would have worked if I didn't need sleeves. Anywhatever, for the underbust problem I increased the double-pointed darts by 1/4 inch at the widest point. For the bottom I simply took it in on the sides. Satisfied with those adjustments, for my fashion fabric, I simply cut a straight 12 and modified the darts on the paper pattern. I probably should have landed somewhere between 12 and 14 for the hips as it was SNUG but not quite TIGHT. In my next version, I can simply  take a 1/2 inch seam allowance rather than 5/8 inch.
Here is the final result. I think it turned out pretty well. You can see there is a little bit of pooling above the bust so for my next version I WILL go ahead and do that FBA.
Bonus Pics:
The husband

Mom & I

My sister & I
Overall I love this look. It was easy without a whole lot of work. I love that I added some great pieces to my wardrobe that I will use again and again. The shoes are Gianni Bini via Dillard's. Clutch is Michael Kors. It's pretty roomy for a clutch. It's about 2 inches deep. The necklace is two very long strands of beads. I folded them in half and secured the ends with a piece of ribbon and then added the broach to cover the ribbon. It worked LOL.

Below is a pattern review for fellow sewers.

Pattern Review: Burda 7178

Pattern Description:
Unsophisticated, form-fitting dress with low-cut back. Variant A with ¾ sleeves, C sleeveless, optionally with broad collar. Separate skirt, view B with box pleats, to be worn over the dress on special occasions.

Pattern Sizing:
12-22. I made size 12.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Nope. This isn't my first Burda pattern so I knew from experience that I probably wouldn't follow their instructions. I read through them briefly before getting started and yeah...their method of construction makes very little sense to me. I did my own thing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I loved that it was a simple/basic design. I wanted a dress with a high neckline and this pretty much fit the bill.

Fabric Used:
Wool crepe I scored during a sale on fabricmartfabrics.com for $8/yd.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
+Raised the back by 3 inches. The point of the V-neck was about even with the armhole. Since I was wearing this to church, I wanted it to be a little more modest. (Jesus doesn't need to see my back.)
+I made a 1-inch sway back adjustment.

+Increased the double-pointed darts on the front by 1/4 inch at the widest point - tapering back to original point at top/bottom.

+I omitted the "vent flap" doohickey they were calling to be attached to the lining. That has got to be just about the silliest design feature I ever have seen. Had I read entirely through the instructions (or bothered to read a review) before cutting, I would have added a walking vent. As it were, I just left the slit open.

+I SHOULD HAVE done a slight FBA. I was being lazy and thought I could get away without doing one since Burda is drafted for C cup. For my next version I'll tweek the pattern.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? YES! And YES! Heinous instructions be damned, this dress is VERY flattering.  And it's a quick sew.

I wanted a very simple design to create a classic look and this pattern definitely delivered. I can easily see this being my go-to for a simple well-fitted dress. I have steered away from this type of dart because I didn't want to have to trace the markings LOL. But this pattern was the path of least resistance as it had the high neckline I wanted.

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